Rain has arrived

Rain finally came to Yangshuo: 6C and rain today and should continue cold and wet for the next week. There are only a small number of visiting climbers in town along with the regular contingent of expats, transients and local hard men. The wood-burning stoves in Bar 98 must be irresistible about now because nowhere else has indoor heating. This is the weather I go out of my way to avoid, save up vacation days for the spring and late fall.

Ah Chen and Ah Ban have been pulling down really hard this winter and were getting out nearly everyday. A top Chinese climber from Beijing, Xiao Cai, was down for about a week and he struggled to keep up on the long difficult routes at Moon Hill, Lei Pi Shan and White Mountain. Also got Ah Chen and crew out to the Space Buttress for a go at First Contact (5.13a), they all sent it on their second try. Still no confirmation on three other climbs there all in the 12a/b range. No one has jumped at bolting the thin crack on the long overhung upper-headwall, either it looks too difficult or no one who can climb at that level is willing to do what it takes to put in the anchors; it will probably have to go on aid with a drill. Could be the next classic. Many more people talking about putting up more 13s and 14s which should attract more international climbers.

Climbed in the gym in Shanghai yesterday and got right on the long (20m) ceiling route at Hongkou Stadium. I struggled on this type of route at Yangshuo last trip so I want to get strong enough to pull through more overhanging routes on my next trip planned for April - once it warms up and stops raining. Climbing is the fountain of youth.