Wine Bottle Improvement Project

The Wine Bottle crag sees more use each year than any other crag in Yangshuo: it has stacks of moderate routes, many of which are technically challenging, and it is easy to get to. Guiding companies like to use Wine Bottle for beginner groups and there are often upwards of twenty climbers there on any given day. But, if any of you have ever climbed there after a rain, you know the bottom turns into a sticky mud pit and climbers usually track mud up routes past the second bolts. This is the most obvious place to begin YAI crag improvement projects.

While there last month, I measured out the bottom area and then got a quote for paving the entire area, approx. 100 m2, with limestone paving stones. Figured we may as well do it right the first time. The cost came back surprisingly low, under RMB4000. Next, we contacted the local villager who the Climbing Association is working with to rent the access rights to the crag, along with Golden Cat Cave, to discuss the paving project. We thought he would be on-board, but things are never as easy as they appear.

Turns out that he has just acquired the rental contracts for these and a few other nearby crags. He is looking to enter into a long-term lease contract with some of the Yangshuo Climbing Association; the companies, no names at this point, have not told me about their plans, but many worry they will try to close off the crag and charge climbers to climb there - just like QQ has done at Golden Cat Cave. I'll try to force their hand, maybe even bid against them to acquire the rights via YAI and secure access for everyone. This could be a good model for the rest of our crags as well.

It is unlikely that the paving project can now be completed before the October 1st holiday. That is a shame as I wanted to have at least one project that we could point to when promoting membership in the YAI. This project will benefit the maximum number of climbers including the guiding companies. Please get the word out and start asking questions so that we can get to the bottom of just what is going on with the guiding companies. Also, let me know if you have any input on how other areas have dealt with similar issues. The YAI is intended to be an advocacy group for all Yangshuo climbers and we may not be able to wait for formal registration to get active.