Just back from probably the best climbing trip to Yangshuo I have ever had; there was a great group of climbers in town, the weather was unbelievably dry and warm, and I broke through some climbing barriers. I’ll have to keep my eye on the weather next year instead of writing off a Jan/Feb trip altogether. Looking at the precip charts, winter is a relatively dry period, but it is usually cold and gray.
One US couple, Gab and Maria, returned after a brief trip to other Asian climbing destinations and were seriously pushing their limits. They went from flashing their first 11a to projecting 13a in less than 3 months! I was inspired and starting projecting climbs instead of just going for the on-sight or flash and walking away till I got stronger when I failed. On this trip I repeated climbs, got some redpoint coaching, figured out my mistakes and was surprised how confidently I eventually sent them. Not my favorite style of climbing but I’m planning on doing more of it. I didn’t scare myself as much as when leading trad and it is less adventurous than putting up new lines. I also got on TR and climbed 11d-12b; I got through them but was humbled because I used to think I was strong.
After sport climbing for 10 days, Paul and the Honky crew showed up and we bolted a new line on Birdman, just left of the chimney pitch which I’m recommending calling ‘Tai Chi Mney’ because the stemming has people contorting in all shapes and facing all directions. Our new line leads through the lower black rock to some nice looking thin cracks on orange rock I want to climb on traditional gear next trip. Birdman is just before White Mountain and should have a few more difficult lines completed later this year. Check at Karst Café for the latest info. I’m planning my next trip for April/May before the monsoons hit.
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