Hard Routes

This is the only picture I have of Lei Pi Shan; that's Rocky on Singularity (5.12a/7a+). BD climbers were out this fall and said they thought this was the best piece of limestone in the area. The face shown here is overhanging for most of its 40+ meter height. I had been reluctant to climb there thinking the grades were too hard, but I surprised myself by getting up a few things and now understand why so many climbers love the place. I'll go back.

I’ve been back at climbing regularly for about 3 years now and I still can’t climb HARD routes, but I am getting stronger and getting up more stuff on lead. I’ve started to wonder why harder routes are such an attraction. Jeff Lowe said that the best climber is the one having the most fun. I’m usually having more fun when I’m pushing my limits.

Harder lines make me dig deeper, usually someone tells me that I’m way strong enough to get up a hard line, and that I’ve just got to figure out how to make the moves or keep my head in it when I feel like bailing. Being on the edge, stepping into the unknown, leaving the security of the last rest, that is where life happens. Kind of like that first kiss you’re not sure she will accept, but you feel compelled to put your heart out on the line. Remember how that felt? Harder lines are only as good as their ability to recreate that wonderful feeling of wanting something, but not knowing how it is going to turn out and going for it anyway.